BLACK DIAMOND Momentum Harness Package Review: Complete Starter Kit for Gym and Crag

What You Get: Package Contents

This package includes five components: the Men's Momentum harness (Dual Core Construction, four gear loops, Speed Adjust waistbelt buckle, trakFIT leg loops), the ATC-XP belay/rappel device (multi-friction-mode tube-style), a RockLock screwgate carabiner (pear-shaped HMS profile, approximately 24 kN gate-closed strength based on Black Diamond's standard RockLock specs), a Mojo chalk bag in assorted color, and a supply of BD White Gold loose chalk. Black Diamond does not publish the total package weight, but the Momentum harness alone weighs approximately 365 g in size Medium (manufacturer spec from the standalone harness listing—verify current specs before purchase).

Harness Construction and Fit System

The Momentum harness employs Dual Core Construction: a thin foam layer sandwiched between two webbing panels on the waistbelt and leg loops. This design distributes pressure more evenly than single-layer webbing harnesses (common in budget models) without the bulk of fully padded alpine harnesses. The waistbelt uses a pre-threaded Speed Adjust buckle—pull the tail to tighten, press the release tab to loosen—eliminating the need to rethread a doubled-back buckle each session. The trakFIT leg loops are fixed-circumference elastic bands that stretch to accommodate layering changes; they do not have buckles, which saves 30–50 g compared to fully adjustable leg loops but limits fit range. OutdoorGearLab's review notes the Momentum offers 'good comfort for the price' and ranks it among the more comfortable entry-level harnesses, though it doesn't match the plushness of Black Diamond's own Solution harness (which uses thicker foam and costs approximately $20–30 more).

The four pressure-molded gear loops are rigid plastic inserts that hold their shape when empty, making it easier to clip quickdraws or cams without fumbling. This is a practical feature for sport climbing and top-roping; trad climbers carrying 15+ pieces may find four loops limiting (many trad-oriented harnesses offer five or six loops). The rear haul loop is a simple webbing strip rated for non-load-bearing tasks like attaching a rope bag or chalk bag; it is not rated for rappelling or hauling heavy loads.

ATC-XP Belay Device and RockLock Carabiner

The ATC-XP is a tube-style belay device with two friction modes: a standard slot for single ropes (8.7–10.5 mm) and a high-friction slot with deeper grooves for skinny ropes or added control on heavy climbers. The device weighs approximately 88 g and accepts two ropes for multi-pitch or twin-rope systems. It lacks the assisted-braking cam of devices like the Petzl GriGri or Edelrid Mega Jul, so proper belay technique (keeping the brake hand on the rope at all times) is critical. The included RockLock screwgate carabiner is a pear-shaped (HMS) locker designed for belay use; its wide gate opening (approximately 22 mm) accommodates the Munter hitch and allows smooth rope feeding through the ATC-XP. Black Diamond does not publish the exact strength rating in this package listing, but the standard RockLock screwgate is rated 24 kN major axis, 8 kN minor axis, 7 kN gate open (verify current specs).

Intended Use Cases and Comparison Context

This package targets gym climbers and sport climbers building their first personal rack. The Momentum harness is comfortable enough for 2–4 hour gym sessions and sport cragging days; the ATC-XP handles both top-rope belays and lead belays competently; the chalk bag and chalk eliminate two more purchasing decisions. REI's product page and Backcountry's listing both position this as a 'starter set' or 'beginner package,' and that framing is accurate: experienced climbers already own these items individually (often in lighter or more specialized versions), but new climbers benefit from the bundled convenience and modest price savings (approximately $10–15 compared to buying components separately at MSRP).

Within Black Diamond's harness lineup, the Momentum sits below the Solution (more padding, adjustable leg loops, approximately 395 g) and above the discontinued Couloir (minimalist alpine harness, sub-300 g). It competes directly with the Petzl Corax and Arc'teryx AR-395a in the 'comfortable entry-level' segment. Climbers prioritizing weight savings for alpine approaches or ski mountaineering should consider lighter harnesses (sub-300 g), but those harnesses sacrifice comfort for multi-hour hanging belays or gym sessions. The Momentum's Dual Core Construction strikes a middle ground: 365 g is light enough for casual multipitch days but comfortable enough for extended gym use.

Durability Considerations

The Momentum harness uses Dynex (Black Diamond's proprietary Dyneema blend) for the belay loop, which offers high strength-to-weight and abrasion resistance. The waistbelt and leg loop webbing is nylon with a durable weave; the foam core is closed-cell (does not absorb water). Pressure-molded gear loops are more durable than sewn fabric loops but can crack if the harness is stored under heavy compression or exposed to extreme cold repeatedly. The ATC-XP is machined aluminum alloy; the friction grooves will wear smooth over thousands of belays (typical lifespan 5–10 years of regular gym use), at which point braking performance degrades and the device should be retired. The RockLock carabiner is forged aluminum with a screw-lock gate; inspect the gate action and nose annually for wear. Black Diamond recommends retiring harnesses after 3–5 years of regular use or immediately after any fall exceeding factor 1.5, whichever comes first.

Value and Alternatives

At approximately $98 MSRP (verify current price), this package offers modest savings compared to buying components individually: the Momentum harness alone retails around $65, the ATC-XP around $30, the RockLock screwgate around $13, and a chalk bag plus chalk around $15–20, totaling roughly $123–128 separately. The $25–30 savings is meaningful for budget-conscious beginners, though experienced climbers may prefer to select each component individually (e.g., substituting a lighter belay device or a larger chalk bag). Climbers who already own a belay device or carabiner should purchase the standalone Momentum harness to avoid redundancy.

Alternative starter packages include the Petzl Corax Kit (similar concept, slightly heavier harness, Petzl Verso belay device) and the Arc'teryx AR-395a package (discontinued but occasionally available, lighter harness). Climbers prioritizing weight over comfort should consider standalone lightweight harnesses like the Black Diamond Couloir (if still available used) or the Petzl Altitude, paired with a lighter belay device like the Petzl Reverso or Black Diamond ATC Guide.

Frequently Asked Questions

The Bottom Line

The BLACK DIAMOND Momentum Harness Package delivers a functional starter kit for gym climbers and sport climbers who value convenience and comfort over weight optimization. The Dual Core Construction harness is comfortable enough for all-day sessions, the ATC-XP handles both top-rope and lead belays competently, and the bundled accessories eliminate several purchasing decisions. Experienced climbers and alpinists will likely prefer lighter, more specialized components, but this package serves its target audience—beginners building their first rack—effectively and at a modest price savings compared to buying individually.